Frequent Questions

Welcome to our FAQ page, where you can read and ask dog training questions about potty training, leash training, how to stop problem behaviors such as barking, jumping, and more.

You can also learn about the Mann’s Best Friend proven programs and principles!

  1. We have a proven track record at L.A. School for Dogs in Westlake Village, California. Every three to six weeks approximately 15-20 dogs graduate this program!
  2. These courses will show you step-by-step using REAL untrained dogs, in REAL training environments, yielding REAL results! 
  3. No other training program teaches my proprietary methods and philosophies, using Dog Speak, Body Language and the Five Senses. In order to teach dogs our language, it is essential that we first learn a bit of theirs!
  4. Your dog should walk next to you without pulling!
  5. There is a plan to get your dog off of food rewards by the end of the training.
  6. Your dog should become responsive to your first requests.
  7. Your dog should become tolerant to significant distractions (dog dependent). 
  8. We have a set curriculum, order and time frame in which you should achieve success.

No, this is not clicker dog training.

Clickers are great for things such as teaching complex tricks that require building micro-movements with your dog. The clicker principle is awesome in that it is used to capture your desired action from your dog immediately in order to point out what he did to earn a reward. The click is used to “mark” precisely when your dog gets something right that you are trying to teach him, and also lets him know the reward is coming. 

However, in my many years of experience, I have found that clients find it too cumbersome to use a clicker for general obedience training. And it is just not necessary. You are able to accomplish the same thing by using the word “yes!” when your dog does something right, leaving your hands free for other things during training.

In the Mann’s Best Friend Proven Eight-Week Program, there is a lesson on how to use markers as an essential part of your advanced training program.

Another essential dog training secret that I am sharing is The Proper Use of Treats. This is where most online dog training programs fail you. Who ever actually shows you how to successfully wean your dog off of the food treats successfully? I do, I invite you to give it a try!

While each dog will be different, the fastest way is to begin with crate training, and gradually expand the space in which your dog can be trusted over time. It’s possible to have your puppy somewhat reliable between 5 and 7 months of age. This is a very loose estimate due to differences in bladder sizes, feeding schedule and parenting.

This is the most complete and fastest way to stop bad behaviors, and build a rock solid relationship with your dog.

Most dog training goals or problems can be narrowed down to some basic principles.

And if you allow it, these programs will point out what you as humans are doing to inadvertently train and reinforce the very negative behaviors you are trying to eliminate!

In my experience dogs are easy because I understand them and their language, speak in their language and then teach them ours.  I will teach you to do the same. 

You do not have to use crate training to house train your puppy, but there are some things to consider. House training involves both potty training AND also getting to a point where you can rely on your dog to spend alone time in your house without destroying things or learning to chase the UPS man. This takes time since puppies will not be 100% reliable unattended inside the house until they are at minimum, nine months and older. Puppies go through a teething stage from four to six months old. After that, from seven to nine months is the juvenile (delinquent) stage! 

  • Do you have the time to oversee your puppy every second to prevent mistakes and bad habits from forming? If not you need a crate, playpen, or section of laundry room to place puppy when you cannot be watching him. Once puppies discover that they can get away with raiding the trash can for scraps you cannot undo that pleasure! By preventing bad habits from forming you can focus on training the good stuff.
  • Do you plan on traveling with, or sending your dog to grooming or the vet at anytime in their lives? If so, they should be taught to become content in a crate.
  • A very young puppy will soil anywhere outside of it’s immediate sleeping space so a crate will allow you to get him holding it until you take him outside. By setting up frequent and consistent outings for potty and play time your puppy will welcome both the relief he gets outside, and the quiet time inside of the den space you create for him. As long as you are giving your puppy plenty of exercise and are taking him out for potty and play time multiple times per day, there is little reason not to allow him his naps in a crate.
  • Start with super short amounts of time in the crate while you are still home and in the room. Then work up to leaving. Four hours is the maximum time your puppy should spend in a crate. 
  • For detailed help with puppy training try our Puppy Head Start Program. It will set you leaps and bounds ahead of the pack!

This is a really good question because it addresses the communication gap between a dogs language and ours!

So often people come in to training with the complaint that their puppy won’t listen! Now I don’t know about you but when I was an infant I knew very FEW words!

So how can you know if your dog is understanding what you are saying?

Answer: There are too many variables in this question but you will definitely want to first be sure to teach your dog by completing hundreds of repetitions especially in similar situations where you are mostly going to be expecting him to listen and comply.

We address this point of training in the Proven Eight Week Program where we KNOW our dogs have learned something and now it is up to us to convince our dog that we expect consistent responses regardless of the situation.

Children under the age of 12 have difficulty with their own impulses and consistency so if children are doing actual training it should be with the guidance and supervision of an adult. Adults should think of their role as coach or referee who sets the rules of play, calls for fouls and time-outs and provides adequate protections and quiet-time for pets as well as children.

Children can really benefit from the structure of feeding, cleaning and walking responsibilities, and they offer the necessary socialization of dogs to a bustling atmosphere! Be sure to teach children appropriate ways of petting and handling!

Simple tricks and commands that are easy for children to try can include sit, paw, and so-on and they are fun to share with friends!

How to Stop my Dog from Pulling on the Leash

 Answer: Teach him to “heel” (also known as walking next to your heel with the leash loose)!

The virtues of this activity are great. When you realize how often you will use this basic and powerful tool in your lifetime with your dog, you will wish you started sooner!

  • Heeling replaces pulling, lunging, jumping up, stealing food or running away
  • Heeling is the most valuable tool in teaching impulse control.
  • Heeling helps him or her with other patience-building lessons such as stay, leave-it, and more.
  • Heeling teaches your dog to keep his eyes on you, which leaves less room for other undesirable behaviors.
  • When your dog is next to you instead of in front, you become the first line of defense, deciding where to go, whom to visit or what to chase! 

There are many reasons why dogs pull on the leash, but mostly it is a combination of

  • Excess energy-All dogs have energy but some more than others. The younger the dog, the more this is a piece of your trouble puzzle.
  • Boredom- Dogs crave activity. If you are boring your dog will find something to do somehow! Have you traveled the same route over and over again? Then it is time for new adventures. Enthusiasm is very important in keeping your dog interested in you. Dynamics in your body language and tone are helpful. Try being less predictable by changing up the route, as well as changing direction often to keep your dog guessing.
  • Natural tendencies- Being pack animals dogs are hard wired to cover ground in search of food, mates, danger and so-on. And there is always a leader. If you assume the follower position, your dog will just assume the lead.
  • The opposition reflex-The more you pull your dog to you, the more he tries to get away! Steady and constant pressure on a dog will guarantee he pulls in return. Try holding the very end of the leash and give a short pull and release to get some slack into the leash. Immediately change direction on your dog in order to buy you some time with the leash loose. Repeat this each time he goes back to pulling. 
  • Lack of training- It is easy to stop the pulling if you know how! Success with heeling is guaranteed using our proven Eight Week Program.  Start now!

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